Remote Location, Riveting Diving: Cocos Island,
Costa Rica
By Henry C. Powers
It
was a dark, gray day some 300 miles (480 km) out
in the Pacific, with choppy seas and a strong
current. Our small inflatable boat hugged the
leeward side of a jagged chunk of volcanic real
estate that jutted some 30 feet (9 m) straight
up. Despite the seemingly gloomy setting, I
could barely wipe the grin off my face to get my
regulator in my mouth. Some would think me nuts
that my “dream vacation” involved tossing about
in a rubber raft in a choppy sea far from shore.
But they’re the ones who don’t know what waits
below the waves off Cocos Island, Costa Rica.
The divemaster instructed us to get in, get
down, and make it to the rocks quickly or we’d
risk getting blown off the site by the strong
current. My buddy and I made Special
Forces-perfect entries and dive-bombed to 70
feet (21 m). We worked our way around the
seamount. I braced myself between two big rocks,
looked up and took in a scene that was worth all
the trouble it had taken to get there — wave
after wave of scalloped hammerhead sharks
cruising right over my head as they visited
cleaning stations along the reef. They seemed so
close I could almost reach out and touch them.
Sharks aren’t fond of
divers’ bubbles, so the strong current that had been
a pain was now working to our advantage; it swept
our bubbles away, allowing the hammerheads to move
close to us without getting spooked. My buddy and I
sat wedged in the rocks, snapping photos and
marveling at the scene unfolding before us. My lips
were curling into a grin again. It occurred to me
that what seems “over the top” here is just average
for Cocos Island, Costa Rica.
Lush Landscape, Colorful History Slightly smaller
than West Virginia, the Central American country of
Costa Rica is sandwiched between Panama to the
southeast and Nicaragua to the north. Its New World
name came from explorer Christopher Columbus who
visited here in 1502 and was so impressed by the
abundance of gold and friendliness of the people he
dubbed it Costa Rica — “the Rich Coast.” Running
down its spine is a pair of mountain ranges that
extend to both its borders. Crowning these ranges
are four active volcanoes, the most well-known being
Irazu which erupted in 1963 and 1965, covering the
country in ash. Between the mountain ranges sits a
high-altitude plain of fertile volcanic soil that is
home to more than half the country’s population.
The
capital of San Jose is in central Costa Rica at
3,772 feet (1,143 m) and is said to have an “eternal
spring” climate of scattered showers, clouds and
sun. Coastal lowlands on either side of this
mountain range provide Costa Rica with 1,290 km (800
miles) of waterfront. Costa Ricans and tourists
alike enjoy vacationing on both the calm Caribbean
and the more rugged Pacific Ocean beaches. Though
Costa Rica was never high on the hit list of Spanish
conquistadors, Spanish colonization left a bigger
effect on it than on other countries in this region.
During Spanish occupation from 1502 to 1821, Costa
Ricans were brought close to extinction from
European disease such as smallpox and tuberculosis,
which killed most of the indigenous peoples and sent
those that remained fleeing into the dense jungle to
hide. The loss of native influence and tradition was
replaced as the Spanish culture spread throughout
Costa Rica, and is still obvious today. Spanish is
the official language and English is spoken in many
tourist areas. Ninety percent of Costa Ricans are
Roman Catholic. Costa Rica freed itself from Spanish
rule September 15, 1821, and 60 years later in 1881
declared itself an independent republic. Although
attempts at democracy were made, what was to be
called the first “honest” election was held in 1889.
Proving that even democratic governments aren’t
without problems, the results of the 1948 election
launched Costa Rica into The War of National
Liberation. After the votes were counted, former
President Rafael Calderon and his “puppet” successor
President Teodoro Picado, who made a failed bid for
a second term, were unhappy with the election
results and persuaded their loyalists not to
recognize President-elect Ulate. A revolution ensued
under the leadership of Jose Figueres Ferrer, who
formed an interim government until arranging for
Ulate to safely assume his elected post. The Costa
Rican people place a high value on peace and civil
rights. In their 1949 constitution, women and blacks
were given the right to vote and the armed forces
were dismantled. To this day Costa Rica has no
military other than a police force that includes
their coast guard. In 1987, President Oscar Arias
received the Nobel Peace Prize for trying to
influence Central Americans with examples of peace.
Today, most Cost Ricans are farmers of Spanish
descent, working their own plots of land in farming
co-ops that grow coffee, bananas, sugar and
houseplants. Working in these co-ops entitles Costa
Rican farmers to receive government funding and
health care. Although coffee production has always
been a big industry for Costa Rica, tourism has
established a strong economic presence in the last
few decades. Eco-tourism such as diving, hiking and
jungle exploration are very popular.
Cocos Island
For many people, “remote” is a way to change the
television channel. For the serious diver with
sights set on diving with multiple “Mr. Bigs,”
remote is Cocos Island, Costa Rica. The 36-hour boat
journey crosses 300 miles (480 km) of open sea
before reaching Cocos. Possibly named Cocos for the
abundance of coconut palms that once grew here, this
3-mile-wide-by-4-mile-long oasis was once a popular
stopping-off point for seafarers of America’s West
Coast. During the 16th through 18th centuries,
mapmakers could’ve marked it with a big “X” to
indicate pirates — and treasure. Pirates preyed upon
Spanish galleons loaded with gold and other booty
from Central and South American conquests. Many of
these ill-gotten treasures were buried on the
uninhabited Cocos Island for safe keeping. Cocos is
among many islands reputed to be the inspiration
behind Robert Louis Stephenson’s book “Treasure
Island.” The author would have had plenty to write
about, indeed. The Treasure of Lima is perhaps the
most famous pirate tale. After Spain had conquered
most of Central and South America, revolutionaries
were hard at work in an effort to reliberate many of
these countries. These revolutionaries proved quite
a threat to the supply line of New World treasures
back to Spain. The Viceroy of Peru, who feared
losing tax revenue destined for Spain, stockpiled
the taxes for years until he felt it could be safely
transported. When Peru was threatened with impending
attack, the Viceroy placed the treasure in the hands
of a trusted sea captain and his crew. Overcome by
greed, they stole the hoards of gold and silver and
buried it on Cocos. It was never recovered. Although
treasure-hunting permits are no longer issued by
Costa Rica, more than 500 treasure hunts have been
made on Cocos, with minimal return. This is no
surprise to those who understand the cruelty of its
terrain. Cocos’ steep hills of unstable rock and
dense jungle vegetation may have simply, “devoured”
the treasure. Several high- profile persons
including one U.S. president have searched for
treasure here. The most well-known treasure hunter
was August Gissler, who moved to Cocos in the late
1880s and tried to colonize the island. In 1888
Cocos was claimed by Costa Rica and Gissler, the one
man who knew this island better than anyone, was
made its governor. Unfortunately, after 20 years and
no treasure, he left disappointed. Today the island
is uninhabited, except for a few park rangers and
scientists. In 1992 Cocos Island was designated as a
marine reserve by Costa Rica with a 5-mile (9-km)
no-fishing zone established around it. In 1997 Cocos
became a United Nations World Heritage Site, which
entitles it to receive funding and protection from
the United Nations much like the Grand Canyon in the
United States and the Great Pyramids of Egypt.
Diving
The amped-up conditions around Cocos Island are not
for the novice diver. Strong currents are the norm
and can reach several knots at times. Drift diving
is common, as is the sit-still-and-watch dive, where
a diver tucks into the rocks and surveys the action.
Transportation to Cocos Island is by live-aboard,
and all dives are done by boat, usually in small
crafts called “pangas” that accommodate about 10
divers and gear. Divers should be comfortable with a
back-roll entry and carry inflatable and audible
signaling devices. Besides several types of sharks,
an abundant diversity of large and small marine life
plies these waters. Divers can’t help but be amazed
at the number of rays present at most dive sites.
Marble rays, sometimes in squadrons of 50 or more,
glide over the reef in a loose formation. A solitary
bat ray — easily distinguishable by its long
whiplike tail and spotted back, will occasionally
follow. Lobsters — big lobsters — seem to be stuffed
into every crack and crevice of the reef, but like
all other marine life here, aren’t to be touched.
Playful pods of dolphin are commonly sighted on the
surface and occasionally divers will encounter them
underwater. On early morning dives, hammerheads line
up at cleaning stations on the reef. Though
hammerheads tend to be scarce on afternoon and night
dives, white-tipped reef sharks are active, feeding
on smaller reef fishes. In a rhythmic dancelike
process, jacks and white-tips charge at their prey,
attempting to catch a fish or lobster off guard.
Success triggers a feeding frenzy of nearly a dozen
sharks furiously twisting and turning as they fight
for a mouthful. Manuelita Island is more of an
extension of Cocos Island to its north than an
island itself. More dives are done here than
anywhere else on Cocos as it is almost always
divable and is within a quick boat ride from where
charter boats anchor in both Wafer and Chatham bays.
The east side of Manuelita is relatively
current-free. A rocky ledge meets the sandy bottom
at 50 feet (15 m). Reef fishes, turtles and
white-tipped reef sharks are common here. The west
side of Manuelita Island features a sharply
cascading wall of volcanic rock that drops to a
sandy bottom at about 120 feet (36 m). Large
boulders are piled atop one another, creating the
perfect “hiding spots” for divers to observe the
comings and goings of hammerhead sharks. A small
guano-covered rock coincidently named “Dirty Rock,”
lies northwest of Chatham Bay. Barely protruding
from the sea, Dirty Rock features a near-vertical
drop to a bottom depth of 100 feet (30 m). This is
the favorite site for sharks of all kinds, and manta
rays, too. Dirty Rock is also a good site for whale
shark encounters. Named after one of Cousteau’s
research ships, Alcyone is a deep seamount on the
southwest side of Cocos. It is one of the few sites
where you’ll dive from an anchored boat. Large
groups of hammerheads are often seen here. The rainy
season from May to November brings large groups of
hammerheads close to the island but may reduce the
visibility, which can vary 20-100 feet (6-30 m). The
dry season from December to April has calm seas and
great visibility. Water surface temperatures average
about 80-85 degrees Fahrenheit (26-30 degrees
Celsius). Thermoclines occur between 60 and 100 feet
(18 and 30 m); temperatures can drop as much as 10
degrees or more. A 3-mm or 5-mm wet suit is
recommended. Live-aboard Diving Three hundred miles
is a long way to go for a two-tank day trip, so a
live-aboard is really the only way to experience
Cocos. Most boats anchor in protected Chatham Bay
and use pangas for diving. Three to four dive
excursions per day are usually scheduled. Divers can
choose to make any and all of these dives or stay on
the live-aboard and relax in a hammock or watch a
movie in the air-conditioned salon. All the luxuries
of home have been carefully thought out and taken
care of. Hearty meals are prepared and served at
regular times to keep hungry divers full of energy
and enthusiasm for the next dive. The dive staff not
only takes care of you underwater, but also fills
your tanks and prepares your equipment between
dives. All the diver needs to worry about is the
time for the next dive and when to take a nap. Most
live-aboards offer nitrox, camera and video rental
and film processing on board. Rebreather training is
also offered on some vessels. Surface Interval Costa
Rica’s mountainous mainland terrain and lush rain
forests make an ideal setting for activities like
hiking, river rafting and wildlife observation. The
Palo Verde National Park is a popular place for
hiking and bird watching. Between the Tempisque and
Bebedero rivers, this wildlife refuge for aquatic
birds encompasses one of the largest wetlands in
Costa Rica. On another one of Costa Rica’s four
active volcanoes, The Parque Nacional Rincon de la
Vieja has boiling mud pools, sulfur springs, and hot
springs for visitors to bathe in. On the Parque
Nacional Corcovado on the Peninsula de Osa in the
southern part of Costa Rica, visitors can spend
several days hiking through rain forest and jungle.
The Sarapiqui River is a river-rafting hot spot,
with Class II and Class III rapids — and a few
white-knuckle Class IV rapids during the rainy
season. More of a high-adrenaline adventure ride
than a scientific study of jungle wildlife, a new
activity becoming very popular in Central America is
called a “canopy tour.” Thrill seekers are strapped
into a rappelling harness attached to a steel cable
and sent zipping through the jungle at high speeds
and dizzying heights. Costa Rica’s northwest coast
offers some good diving, and most sites are within a
30-minute boat ride from shore. Visibility here
averages 30-80 feet (9-24 m) year-round. Farther
from shore, diving at Bat and Catalina islands is
available on extended boat trips. A wealth of marine
life can be encountered here, including large
schools of manta rays with wingspans of 15-20 feet
(4.5-6 m). Surfers are as common as coconuts in
Costa Rica. The cult classic “Endless Summer” was
filmed here. Playa Naranjo in northwest Costa Rica
and Puerto Viejo on the Caribbean coast are popular
surfing areas. Whether you’re swinging through the
mainland jungle on a zip line or riding a ripping
current off Cocos Island, Costa Rica is a
destination that can deliver high-adrenaline
adventure. It’s up to you to decide how high you’d
like to crank it up.
Facts & Figures
Location: Costa Rica is in Central America,
north of Panama and south of Nicaragua with
coastlines on both the Pacific Ocean and in the
Caribbean Sea. Cocos Island is roughly 300 miles
(480 km) southwest of Costa Rica’s Pacific Coast.
Language: Spanish with English spoken in tourist
areas
Government: Democratically elected republic with
elections held every four years. Time zone: Eastern
Standard Time minus one hour. Daylight-saving time
is not observed.
Climate: The rainy season is from May to
November and the dry season is from December to
April. Cocos Island is in the intertropical
convergence zone where weather patterns of the two
hemispheres meet, which can make for quickly
changing and interesting weather. Water temperature:
80-85 degrees Fahrenheit (26-30 degrees Celsius),
with thermo clines between 60 and 100 feet (4.5 and
30 m), which drop into the low to mid-70s.
Getting there: U.S. flights to San Jose are
available from major airlines. Costa Rica has two
domestic airlines: SANSA and Travelair. Entry
requirements: A valid passport is required for entry
and an exit fee of U.S.$17 per person is collected
at your departure. There is talk of raising the fee
to $23 shortly. A Cocos Island park use fee is
collected by dive operators, currently U.S.$250.
Electricity: 110 volts Currency: At press time,
U.S.$1= 356.270 colons
General information: Tourism Board of Costa
Rica, (800) 343-6332 or
The
capital of San Jose is in central Costa Rica at
3,772 feet (1,143 m) and is said to have an “eternal
spring” climate of scattered showers, clouds and
sun. Coastal lowlands on either side of this
mountain range provide Costa Rica with 1,290 km (800
miles) of waterfront. Costa Ricans and tourists
alike enjoy vacationing on both the calm Caribbean
and the more rugged Pacific Ocean beaches. Though
Costa Rica was never high on the hit list of Spanish
conquistadors, Spanish colonization left a bigger
effect on it than on other countries in this region.
During Spanish occupation from 1502 to 1821, Costa
Ricans were brought close to extinction from
European disease such as smallpox and tuberculosis,
which killed most of the indigenous peoples and sent
those that remained fleeing into the dense jungle to
hide. The loss of native influence and tradition was
replaced as the Spanish culture spread throughout
Costa Rica, and is still obvious today. Spanish is
the official language and English is spoken in many
tourist areas. Ninety percent of Costa Ricans are
Roman Catholic. Costa Rica freed itself from Spanish
rule September 15, 1821, and 60 years later in 1881
declared itself an independent republic. Although
attempts at democracy were made, what was to be
called the first “honest” election was held in 1889.
Proving that even democratic governments aren’t
without problems, the results of the 1948 election
launched Costa Rica into The War of National
Liberation. After the votes were counted, former
President Rafael Calderon and his “puppet” successor
President Teodoro Picado, who made a failed bid for
a second term, were unhappy with the election
results and persuaded their loyalists not to
recognize President-elect Ulate. A revolution ensued
under the leadership of Jose Figueres Ferrer, who
formed an interim government until arranging for
Ulate to safely assume his elected post. The Costa
Rican people place a high value on peace and civil
rights. In their 1949 constitution, women and blacks
were given the right to vote and the armed forces
were dismantled. To this day Costa Rica has no
military other than a police force that includes
their coast guard. In 1987, President Oscar Arias
received the Nobel Peace Prize for trying to
influence Central Americans with examples of peace.
Today, most Cost Ricans are farmers of Spanish
descent, working their own plots of land in farming
co-ops that grow coffee, bananas, sugar and
houseplants. Working in these co-ops entitles Costa
Rican farmers to receive government funding and
health care. Although coffee production has always
been a big industry for Costa Rica, tourism has
established a strong economic presence in the last
few decades. Eco-tourism such as diving, hiking and
jungle exploration are very popular. 
