 Raja
Ampat. The name alone conjures up images of a
faraway, magical place, and for North American
sport divers Raja Ampat is exactly that. The
name Raja Ampat, meaning "four kings," dates
back to the 15th century when an influential
Muslim political figure appointed four local
"rajas," or kings, one in each of the four
island groups (Misool, Salawati, Batanta and
Waigeo) that comprise this diving Mecca. In a
remote area in eastern Indonesia, Raja Ampat was
virtually unknown to westerners until modern
times, and the islands were ignored by tourists
until recent years when diving pioneers Max
Ammer and Edi Frommenwiler began to share its
many wonders with the diving world.
The islands are in the area known as the Coral
Triangle, a region bounded by Malaysia, Indonesia,
New Guinea and the Philippines that is defined as
the center of marine biodiversity. The translation
for laymen is that in Raja Ampat there are more
species of fishes, in excess of 1,000, and more
invertebrates, including 600 kinds of mollusks and
535 corals (compared with only 60 in all of the
Caribbean), than anywhere else on Earth. An amazing
75 percent of all known corals occur in Raja's
waters and the surrounding area. In short, there is
no place else quite like Raja Ampat.
The World's Most Expansive Archipelago
Stretching along the equator for 3,174 miles (5,120
km) from Sumatra in the west to West Papua (formerly
Irian Jaya) in the east, the thousands of islands
that comprise Indonesia combine to create the
world's most expansive archipelago. There are five
main islands (Sumatra, Java, Kalimantan, Sulawesi
and West Papua), two major sections of archipelago
and as many as 60 smaller archipelagos. Two of the
islands are shared with other countries, Kalimantan
with Malaysia and Brunei, while West Papua shares
the island of New Guinea with Papua New Guinea.
Indonesia's landscape is incredibly
varied. In some places massive volcanoes, 129 of
which are still active,
 dominate
the environment. Close to two-thirds of the land is
covered by verdant tropical rain forests. Mangroves
dominate some low-lying areas including coastal
areas in West Papua, while some parts of Sulawesi
and islands close to Australia are much drier. In
Papua the interior jungle terrain is extremely
rugged and lush, yet numerous mountain peaks rise so
far skyward that they are covered in snow throughout
the year. Along with all of that variety, images of
terraced, well-cultivated rice fields are also
synonymous with many parts of the Indonesian
countryside.
Raja Ampat lies to the west of the Birds Head
peninsula off the northwestern coast of West Papua,
an Indonesian province on the island of New Guinea.
The varied landscapes of the 610-1,500
islands (depending on the accepted distinction
between an island and an islet) that comprise Raja
Ampat create some absolutely breathtaking visuals.
In some places palm trees and white-sand beaches
line the seashore, but in many others steep,
plant-covered cliffs begin right at the shoreline.
From close up, you will quickly realize that much of
the land is rugged, steep and hard to traverse.
Not too long ago in terms of geological time, the
islands were submerged coral reefs. They appeared
and took shape as a result of the upward thrust
produced by shifting tectonic plates, seismic jolts
and changes in sea level that occurred over time.
Large, cathedral-like caves filled with spectacular
stalactites and stalagmites penetrate a number of
islands, especially in Misool. The breathtaking view
from atop the western bay in Wayag in the north is
one that captures the essence of the topside appeal
of Raja Ampat.
The People and Their Culture
The human history of Indonesia is complex and
fascinating, although the human history and culture
of Raja Ampat are quite limited.
 Hominid
fossils from a creature known as Java man (Homo
erectus, an ancient relative of our species,
according to evolutionary theory) discovered in East
Java are believed to date back 500,000 years.
Significant waves of human migration to the region,
probably from the Pacific Islands or southern China,
took place as long ago as 5,000 years ago.
Due to the rugged terrain and ties to ancestral
land, numerous primitive cultures developed, with
more than 250 languages and even more dialects, and
life here remained in the Stone Age for as long as
it did anywhere on Earth. European influence arrived
with the Spanish beginning in the mid-1500s, but it
was the Dutch who had the greatest influence. The
Dutch recognized the enormous upside of trading with
Indonesia and created a powerful, government-run
monopoly known as the VOC (Dutch East India Company)
that ran the spice trade. Conflict with the
Portuguese and Spanish ensued, with the Dutch
finally prevailing as the VOC transformed into a
colonial master. Indonesia remained a Dutch colony
until 1942.
The Japanese occupied the Indonesian archipelago
during much of World War II, with the Dutch briefly
regaining control at the end of the war. But at the
end of 1949, the Dutch conceded all sovereignty
except on the island of New Guinea. Ties to the
Dutch were severed in 1956 and Irian Jaya (now West
Papua) formally became part of Indonesia in 1963.
The early Indonesians were mostly animists,
believing that all objects have a soul and life
force. Today in Indonesia there are significant
numbers of Hindus and Buddhists, but exactly how and
when they arrived is unclear. The first evidence of
Islamic influence dates back to the 11th century,
and during the 15th and 16th centuries Indonesia's
rulers made Islam the state religion. However,
formal Islam was superimposed upon the prevailing
Hinduism and animism, producing the hybrid religions
that are practiced today. Living conditions for the
local population throughout Raja Ampat are quite
basic. Many people fish for their livelihood while
others are employed by area pearl farms. Tourists
typically have little contact with the local people.
Staggering Biodiversity
The reefs of Raja Ampat are magical places where
personal discoveries are made on every dive.
Rightfully known for its staggering diversity of
fishes, corals and other invertebrates, the reefs
also stand out because of their pristine quality and
the stunning colors of the sea fans and soft corals.
Divers enjoy encounters with a variety of marine
creatures ranging in size from tiny pygmy sea horses
to majestic manta rays.
Why, you might ask, has Raja Ampat only recently
gained recognition as such a fantastic place to
dive? The answer is lack of both publicity and
access. The majority of the early underwater
explorers in Raja were Europeans and Australians, so
word got to those parts of the diving world first.
In addition, only a few live-aboard boats included
Raja Ampat in their itineraries until recently, and
even today there are only a handful of dive boats
that visit Raja Ampat, although their numbers are
increasing, and one land-based operation.
Much of the diving begins only a few fin kicks
from the edge of the sheer cliffs of the limestone
 islands,
and there is much to be seen, ranging from
brilliantly colored schools of anthias to giant
clams. At many sites sheer walls plummet straight
down to a depth that is usually between 70 and 120
feet (21 and 36 m) where the slope becomes much more
gradual.
Sea fans and soft corals of every color imaginable
adorn many of the drop-offs, with numerous crinoids
and other invertebrates often clinging to the sea
fans. Of course, the sea fans are also where you
want to look for various species of pygmy sea
horses, an area highlight. Veteran dive guides are
quick to point out sea horses and many of the other
smaller creatures, but with a little practice most
divers find more and more creatures on their own as
they acclimate to Raja's underwater environment. Of
course, if you only focus on looking for the small
creatures you are likely to miss the schools of
tunas and jacks, a variety of turtles, the
occasional blacktip, gray reef and whitetip reef
shark, sea snakes and rays that are usually seen
somewhere during every trip. Well-camouflaged
tassled wobbegong sharks provide a special treat on
some reefs, while sightings of cuttlefish, squid,
the Papuan epaulette shark, a small, innocuous
bottom dweller, and numerous species of arthropods,
echinoderms and mollusks are common during night
dives.
Currents of varying strength are a fact of life
in Raja Ampat. Divemasters give strong consideration
to tides and currents when selecting dive sites.
Current diving usually means dropping into the water
along the top of a drop-off and then riding the
current along the wall before tucking into a
protected area out of the current toward the end of
the dive. A tropical-weight wet suit is recommended,
as is a surface-signaling device such as a safety
sausage and/or Dive Alert(tm).
Most dives are conducted from skiffs, with a
back-roll entry commonly used. Many operators make
nitrox available to nitrox-certified divers, and
because there is so much great diving in relatively
shallow water it is easy to have wonderful dives and
keep good safety margins.
Facts &
Figures
Location: The islands of Raja Ampat are mostly south
of the equator off the northwest coast of the island
of New Guinea. The islands lie within the Seram Sea
in the south and the Halmahera Sea in the north.
Topography: Numerous, mostly small, limestone-based
islands, islets, shoals and cays with some small
sandy beaches. Some islands are pocked with caves,
and many, despite being sheer, are overgrown with
vegetation.
Population: About 49,000 people in 88 villages in a
country of 242 million.
Time Zone: Greenwich Mean Time plus nine hours.
Language: More than 360 ethnic groups speak more
than 300 languages throughout Indonesia with
numerous regional languages and dialects. Some
English is spoken in larger communities.
Religion: About 88 percent of Indonesia's population
is Islam. Hindus are 2 percent, Buddhists 1 percent,
and animists 1 percent (mostly in West Papua). In
eastern Indonesia where Raja Ampat is located,
Christianity is the predominant religion.
Climate and Temperature: Indonesia's climate tends
to be a fairly even hot and humid throughout the
year. In most areas there are two seasons, wet and
less wet (dry can be a misnomer). Raja Ampat tends
to be warm and humid, but gentle sea breezes are
common. Rain is common. Daily highs often exceed 86
degrees Fahrenheit (30 degrees Celsius); nightly
lows tend to be in the 70s F (above 21 C).
Water Conditions: The water temperature is typically
80-86 F (27-30 C), although cold-water currents and
upwellings occur. Visibility commonly ranges from 50
to 100 feet (15 to 31 m) plus. Currents are common.
Electrical Current: 220 volts, 50 cycles. Socket
inputs are designed for two prongs, identical to
those in many European countries. U.S. appliances
can be safely operated but you will want to use a
high-quality voltage regulator for delicate
electronics.
Currency: Rupiah. About 9,075 rupiah to one U.S.
dollar. Note: When exchanging U.S. bills for rupiah,
you must have new, crisp, unwrinkled bills dated
year 2001 or later. Small denominations such as $20
bills are preferred.
Getting There: Singapore Airlines and Garuda
Indonesia are the major international carriers, with
flights from many major cities through Singapore, to
Jakarta, Bali and Manado. Other carriers operate
through Malaysia and Hong Kong. Silk Air (also known
as Wings), Merpati and Pelita Airlines are used for
in-country flights. Most dive travelers arrive in
Sorong, Fak-Fak or Ambon by air with Sorong being
the closest to Raja Ampat.
Park Entrance Fee: A per-person fee of about $75
U.S. for a calendar year is charged to every diver
in Raja Ampat. Individually numbered park tags must
be worn by divers.
Dress: Casual. Shorts, T-shirts and flip-flops are
common. Women are advised to cover their shoulders
and wear a sarong or pants that are at least
knee-length when in public places other than
beaches.
Tipping: Tipping is a common practice in tourist
areas.
Health Concerns: Malaria prophylaxis is recommended
for travel to West Papua and for land-based stays.
Also recommended are vaccines against hepatitis
strains A and B. Bring mosquito repellent and
sunscreen.
Entry and Exit Documents and Taxes: U.S. and
Canadian citizens must have a valid passport with at
least two blank nonamendment pages where your visa
will be placed, and with at least six months until
expiration. A return or onward air ticket is
required for entry. A visitor visa will be issued
upon arrival for a maximum-length stay of 30 days at
a cost of $25 U.S. A departure tax of about $12 U.S.
will be charged at the airport to nontransit
passengers, although this amount may vary from
airport to airport.
Closest Recompression Chamber: Sorong.
Dive Operators:
A number of live-aboard dive boats visit Raja Ampat
at times, but their itineraries vary. Check with
your local dive center or professional dive travel
consultant to book a trip. Sordido Bay Resort on
Cape Kri,
www.iriandiving.com is the only land-based dive
resort in Raja Ampat.
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