behind the lens

A SHOT IN THE DARK: Tips for Photographic Success at Night

Story and photos by Marty Snyderman

In many respects underwater photography is the ultimate two-for-one special. We enjoy the opportunity to photograph one set of creatures during daylight hours and a very different set of animals and behaviors once the sun sets. Our nighttime photographic opportunities come with some different challenges, but don't despair; there are proven ways to deal with many of these obstacles.
Macro Creatures A fundamental reason that we don't see many reef creatures or their full repertoire of behaviors during the day is that they don't like being in bright light. With a variety of fishes and invertebrates alike, if you shine a bright light on them, they are quick to flee, retract or otherwise avoid the light. To overcome this potential obstacle, try diving with the dimmest light you can to navigate around the reef and to focus your lens. Once illuminated but before fleeing, many reef creatures momentarily "freeze." That short period of their indecision is our window of opportunity. To enjoy success at night you often need to be quick when composing your shot and operating various camera system controls. Knowing your way around your camera system "by feel" rather than having to see your camera system controls can help you be quick. This skill can be mastered by familiarizing yourself with the various camera system controls at home and by practicing during daytime dives. Some nights, dense concentrations of planktonic organisms are quick to gather in the beam of a dive light. Those creatures are likely to show up as ruinous backscatter if they are in your frame when you trip the shutter. Placing a red filter over a dive light often helps make a light less attractive to these creatures, minimizing their presence.
Wide-Angle At Night Because we receive no help from ambient light at night, with wide-angle scenes the illuminated portion of your shot must be lit by your strobe(s). Lighting your subject with the edges of the beams from two strobes rather than using a single strobe and pointing it directly at your subject helps keep ruinous backscatter to a minimum. Focusing on a large moving subject such as a manta ray in the dim light of night is usually very challenging. To overcome this challenge, first take your best guess at how close you can get to a subject, and then focus your lens on a brightly lit stationary object like a rock that is at that estimated distance from your lens. Next, if your camera system allows, "lock" the focus so that no matter what happens when you compose and shoot, the focus remains at the set distance. Knowing that distance and the power of your strobe allows you to set your F-stop for the selected ISO. Once the focus and other controls are set, all you need to do is maneuver to the set focusing distance from your subject, compose and shoot.